Archive for the ‘Car Care’ Category

The floor pans are 98% complete and the focus moved to rough fitting the trim panels and the back seat. The original Shelby’s rear seat fold down and due to the extensive frame modifications the original rear seat no longer fits in its place. I thought about modifying the original, but after a few moments of pondering I decide it would not be worth the time or effort. I traced the contour of the seat to a piece of card board and using the break bent the metal to the basic shape. Then I used four ribs to give it strength.
The seat was actually comfortable even without any padding.

The next step was getting the back to fold up and down. I made a frame for the back pad to attach to and used the original hinge for it to pivot on. It turned out so well when I was done I exclaimed “Damn I am good” with my arms thrown in the air (rare moment for me).

Once I finish with all the fabricating and get some paint on the car I will show how to finish the rear seat with padding and upholstery.

To read more about Project Shelby.

Technorati Tags: back seat, Shelby’s, modifying, fabricating

It is quite easy to fabricate your own parts if you have the right tools and motivation. Since this is a custom build finding mounts that will work is out of the question. The hardest part of the whole process is getting the frame, engine and transmission square and level. Since the differential will not travel with the wheels, I added three degrees of angle up and the motor will have three degrees angle down. This will allow for good bearing movement in the U joints and add to their longevity. I found two bolts on back of the block and two in front of the block that were equal from the crank centerline to measure from. The transmission rear yoke was my rear center line measuring point. Once everything is square and true, the fabrication process can begin.

Motor Mount

1. Make sure the block and transmission are square and true.
2. Bolt plates to both sides of the block, this will be your top mounting point.
3. Make a plate that will attach to the crossmember and bolt it in place.
4. Cut a strip of poster board the same thickness as your brace tubing and mark your angles between the two mounting points.
5. Once you have the correct angles you can cut the brace.
6. Fit brace between both plates and tack weld in place.
7. Remove the mount completly from car and weld. Use short beads and work your way around so the heat will not distort your peice.
8. Two gussets were welded to the top and one long one was used on the bottom to reinforce brace
9. Repeat steps for other side. When you cut and make your peices make two of each, one for each side

Transmission Mount

1. Make sure the block and transmission are square and true.
2. Bolt a plate to the transmission with a 90 degree angle coming off of it.
3. A straight bar runs between both frame rails with nuts welded in the ends.
4. Clamp the bar on the 90 degree bend on the mounting plate and check your levels.
5. Mark your frame rails where the bar meets to make your bolt holes and remove bar.
6. Drill your holes and bolt your bar back in place.
7. Make your export brace with 45 degree angles at both ends and weld nuts in to one end of both braces.
8. Dry fit your brace and mark your bolt holes and drill them.
9. Bolt your brace in to place and tack weld to bar.
10. Remove bar and brace and weld completly making sure not to overheat and distort.
11. Bolt back in to place and clamp to your transmission plate.
12. Recheck all your levels and angles and tack weld the brace to your transmission plate.
13. Remove it all again and complete your weld and add any gussets.
14. Reattach the completed mount and make sure that all your bolt holes and levels line up.

It really is that easy and any one can do it, you just need time and patience to make sure everything comes out perfect.

Car restoration is not an easy undertaking. It takes a lot of passion and even more patience, but the end result will not only give you a sense of pride, but also many years of enjoyment. Since you already have a dream in mind, it is a good idea to make a list of expectations based on your ability and available resources. This should be an honest assessment because the end result will be what you put into it, and what you can afford to purchase. Research, research and more research will be your best asset in completing any restoration project.

Financially speaking, a full restoration can cost more than the vehicle’s gross worth when completed, and you should weigh the value of an already restored car on the market versus one that needs restoration. Shop around and do not be sold on a hopeless case based on sentimental value, or one that needs more work and money than you are able to give. Don’t fall for the misinformed theory that you have to have deep pockets to restore a car. Yes, it will cost you a lot of money and old parts are not cheap, but it can be done on a smart and realistic budget over time.

1) Plan your time and budget on a monthly schedule, and stick to it. This will help you tackle small projects and focus your efforts on completing a task. By setting small goals, you are less likely to lose interest in the sometimes-overwhelming process of restoration. Start with your strong points and what you know best. This will help you avoid incomplete projects or broken, irreplaceable disasters.

2) When you come to those tasks that can only be performed by a professional, get estimates and include this in your budget. Talk with the professionals to see what you can do to save time and money. If you can perform the grunt work preparation, than do it by all means. Just make sure you are not causing more work for them, which will wind up costing you more money in the end.

3) Documentation and pictures are not only a good idea, but can be a great asset to the value of the vehicle. When disassembling a section of a car you may end up with many pieces scattered about and you need to remember where each one goes. Pictures will help jog your memory. Good packaging and labels will keep parts and accessories together and complete. You never know when a project might get shelved for an extended period of time and there is nothing worse than having to track down an expensive small part that got lost in the shuffle. Staying organized will save a lot of headaches and frustration.

4) If a task becomes beyond your own capabilities, don’t be afraid to ask for help or recommendations. I have yet to run across a gear head that is not willing to put his two cents in. If you do not know a car enthusiast personally, the Internet has many great resources loaded with people who are as passionate as you are, and more than willing to share time and information on just about every vehicle ever made. Car clubs are a great way to share resources and knowledge and most are very open and inviting to new members. They are enthusiastic about the same things you are, so don’t be afraid to make new friends and ask questions. Books are also great resources, not only on correct vehicle options, but how to perform tasks that are unfamiliar. A little trial and error goes a long way; do not try something new to you on a part that might get ruined.

Honest assessment, patience and organization will carry you a long way and in turn, save you money in the long run. Taking small steps and not biting off more than you can chew will save you unnecessary frustration and keep you motivated, even when it seems like the project will never end. Research and knowledge will ensure that your end result will be exactly as you envisioned, and soon you will be cruising in the car you’ve always dreamed of.

Spring has arrived and it has quite possibly been six months since your classic car has been started. Hopefully before the snow hit last year you took proper steps to secure your vehicle to get it ready for its winter slumber. But even with proper preparation, there are important steps necessary to check your vehicle over before you turn the key for that first drive of the spring.

VISUAL INSPECTION

Start with a visual inspection of the entire vehicle.

Begin with the body, work your way around and get under the vehicle to look for leaks or any areas a critter may have nested. You can usually find nest particles that have dropped down on the floor or on top of engine. If you are lucky, no critters have nested. If they have, try to use a shop vac to suck out the debris instead of using your bare hands. Throughout the inspection you have probably noticed all of the dust and grime that has built up and you may feel inclined to wipe a few spots while you are overlooking the car. Stop right there. Do not do this until you can wash the car properly so as not to scratch or dull the finish.

UNDER THE HOOD

Before attaching the battery, test it and/or give it a charge. While it is charging you can check belts, hoses and wiring to make sure everything looks good. Pump the brake pedal a few times to make sure it has a good pedal and no leaks. Change your oil and filter; moisture has had time to gather and pool inside the block. The same can be said about all lubricants and fluids, but use your discretion; the longer the vehicle has been sitting the more crucial this becomes. Remove the spark plugs and check for moisture and measure the gap. While the plugs are out you may choose to add a small amount of oil to the cylinder walls to lessen damage on initial start. With oil in the motor, turn the vehicle over by hand to get the lubrication process started. Disconnect the “+” coil wire and attach the battery. I would recommend turning the key to the run position and inspect the cars wiring. Look, feel and smell for shorts. Once the wiring appears to be o.k. go ahead and crank the engine over and check your fluid levels again. With the plugs out it will turn easily and hopefully clear out any junk in the combustion chamber. Check your fuel lines, carburetor, clutch and shifter for proper movement and operation.

BRAKES AND SUSPENSION

With the weight of the wheels, wiggle the tires back and forth and up and down. This will make sure that the wheel bearings and suspension links are ready to roll. Remove the tires and check the brakes for rust, leaks, frayed hoses and adjustment. A wire wheel can be used on rotors and drums to remove rust without damage. With correct air pressure in the tires, torque the lug nuts back and roll the car out a few feet. This will assure everything is free and ready to go.

INITIAL START UP

Go easy on the cranking and do not be worried if the engine does not fire up right away. Never use starting fluid to help speed this process (it can crack your heads). If you have a mechanical fuel pump, it may take a few cranks to build pressure. It may be necessary to squirt a small amount of fresh gas in the carburetor and then try starting it (never squirt while cranking or running. This will start a fire). When the car starts, hold the throttle around 2200rpm to insure proper lubrication. This should be done for about 60 seconds. Let the car idle down and shut off and take another general inspection for any surprises that may have slipped past or occurred while running. If no problems exist, restart the car following the previous procedure. Run all the controls, lights and accessories and move the car back and forth a couple of times in the driveway. Once the temp gets close to operating range you are ready for a short trip around the block.

No one knows your car better than you, so pay attention on the first drive and take it easy. After a couple of laps around the block, shut the car down and recheck everything again. Most failures will occur in these first few moments, so stay close to home. If everything is humming along great, put about 40 miles on the odometer (half city/ half highway) and you should be good to go. I perform this operation on ten different vehicles every spring, and I have yet to be disappointed by the outcome. They sometimes need some work before I leave the shop, but I have not been stranded on the side of the road after following these steps.